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Removing latex paint from carpet/upholstery

10.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/latexpaintremo_sctr.htm

Even the neatest of house painters can have an accident once in a while. A drop cloth can be accidentally moved or there’s too much paint on the brush causing drips. There’s even the occasional spill. Sometimes folks mistakenly believe that paint on the carpet or upholstery automatically means the end for that particular piece. This couldn’t be farther from the truth. Latex paint is easily removed from fabric. Before you roll up that carpet or place your couch on the curb, try one of these tips for removing latex-based paint from your rugs and upholstered furniture.
As with any stain, the first line of defense is to act quickly. The longer you wait, the deeper the stain will set. Do your best not to wait until the stain has dried. Take a paper towel or clean rag and blot until no more of the paint can be lifted from the stain. Never rub a stain. Not only will rubbing cause the stain to spread, but it will also rub the staining material deeper into the fabric, making it harder to clean. Rubbing also weakens the fibers of the carpet or upholstery, which will make it wear out quicker. Always blot stains gently.
If there is still paint in the carpet or furniture, try this solution. Take one teaspoon of a mild dish detergent (one containing no bleaches or alkalis) and mix it with a cup of lukewarm water. With a sponge, gently blot this solution into the carpet until the stain is lifted. Rinse the sponge and blot with cool, clean water. Dry by blotting the wet spot with a towel.
For big spills or stains, you can try a water-soluble paint thinner or remover, but you want to make sure it won’t damage the fabric first. Before using any chemical, test it first in a hidden area. Prior to applying chemicals, however, do your best to clean up as much of the stain as you possibly can. If the stain is dry, see if you can scrape the paint off with a fingernail or brush. Be as gentle as possible as you don’t want to pull up the fibers and cause bald spots in the carpet or worn spots in the upholstery. Try squeezing the dry paint with pliers to cause it to flake and fall off. Once this is done, vacuum the loose debris. You need to do this because the chemicals will turn dry paint liquid again. By removing as much dry paint as you can beforehand, you're reducing the amount of mess and additional staining that may result.
Because most staining materials are concentrated in the middle, it’s a good idea to begin working on the stain from the outside in to prevent spreading once the stain turns liquid. Apply a small amount of the paint remover to the stain and blot gently with a cloth. Once the paint softens, see if you can lift it off with a butter or putty knife. If more paint remains, use a small amount of the paint remover and blot with a rag or sponge until the stain is lifted. If the paint remains, you can try saturating the stain with glycerin and leaving it for an hour or two before blotting with a clean cloth.
Once you’ve lifted as much paint as possible, blot with the dishwashing liquid solution until any residue disappears. Scrub with a brush and then blot with a towel. Flush entire area with a solution of one part vinegar to ten parts water. Blot and let dry.
If none of the above methods work, or if you’d rather not attempt this on your own, you could always contact a professional. Just be sure to exercise all your options before sentencing your carpet or furniture to spending eternity as landfill. Remember, it’s much cheaper to spot clean a stain than to replace your living room set.

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